032
LUDGATE,
EVENING 1887
by John O'Connor (1830-89)
It
is early autumn, around 6 p.m. and is going-home time for
many after a long and hard day's toil. Still retaining summer's
cheer, it is warm enough not to need an overcoat. The golden
colour of the lowering sun makes everything look so rich,
but is only like this for these few brief moments.
In
1887, Great Britain was the centre of the Worlds' most powerful
colonial empire. At its heart was London. This picture shows
Fleet Street as the centre of Communications, and St. Paul's
Cathedral the focal point of this famous city.
After
its predecessor's total destruction in the Great fire of 1666,
Sir Christopher Wren designed and built his ultimate masterpiece,
St. Paul's Cathedral. It was completed in 1697, almost three
hundred years ago. But even this is comparatively recent in
London's long rich pageant. This place has witnessed the contrasting
fames of great men like Dick Whittington, four times Lord
Mayor of London, to the wiles of Guido (Guy) Fawkes who tried
to destroy Parliament in Westminster.
Rising
imperiously to 365 ft. above the top of Ludgate Hill, completely
redesigned from the Mediaeval St Paul's Church, Wren substituted
the old square tower and spire with a magnificent dome. The
previous church had been one of the tallest buildings in the
world before the demise of its spire. If Wren's Monument to
the great fire was placed on top of St.Paul's here in the
picture, it would equate approximately to the original height!
This St.Paul's Cathedral
is probably the building most qualified to represent the majestic
led city with traditional forum and temple of worship, even
boasting an amphitheatre. The ancient walls built as an impenetrable
fortress, stood high in defiance between this railway bridge
and St. Paul's. This major gateway, named after King Lud in
66 AD, according to tradition, was set back from the wooden
crossing over the Fleet River. This river now flows beneath
Farringdon Road right here at Ludgate Circus.The Fleet tributary
marked the boundary and Western entrance of the Roman square
mile of the city.
This
road led due West from behind our view to Brentford, the earliest
crossing point over the mighty River Thames before the Romans
built the original London Bridge.The towering portals of St.
Paul's are partly masked from all views by the clutter of
buildings, huddled together along narrow Ludgate Hill high
above this busy crossing. This fabulous approach to St Paul's
can best be appreciated from immediately below. This painting
looks East down to the lowest part of Fleet Street.
Old
Ludgate Circus still acts today as a busy junction where London's
never-ceasing life can be observed. Here in 1887, the evening
rush hour is beginning to bustle with activity. Imagine the
clatter of hooves, and grating iron wheels as the horse-drawn
omnibuses trundle across the well-worn streets. The continuous
shouting of the newspaper boys, selling the evening paper,
is pitched above all the other babble in such a noisy place.
This very latest news, telegraphed from all corners of the
Empire, emanates from a Fleet Street dominated until recently
by the offices of most national and provincial newspapers.
For here was the famous birthplace of The Times, Daily Telegraph,
Express, Mail and many other titles which are still produced
today.
On
the pavements, people jostle past the shops and winebars like
the famous Elvinos; the haunts of journalists and lawyers;
on the left, a flower seller has packed up for the evening
and is wheeling his barrow up Farringdon Street. The iron
bridge itself carried the London, Chatham and Dover railway.
Built in 1865, it was a barrier to the view, until demolished
in 1990. The train crossing the bridge, is drawing into Holborn
Viaduct Station.
The church of St Martin within Ludgate is prominent on the
left, its tower topped by one of Wren's most graceful lead
steeples, completed just a few years before St. Paul's in
1684. John O'Connor was born in Ireland and worked in Belfast
and Dublin as a painter of theatrical scenery. Having migrated
to London in 1848, he became principal scenery painter at
the Drury Lane and Haymarket Theatres. From about 1855 he
began to paint large topographical views of London which he
exhibited at the Royal Academy.
|